Seafood Tom Yum

This is Thailand’s most famous soup, done properly. A clear or slightly creamy broth that is simultaneously sour (lime), hot (chilli), savoury (fish sauce) and aromatic (lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaf). On Samui, the seafood version brims with the freshest catch of the morning. The quality of the lime — whether it arrived this morning or last week — will tell you everything you need to know about the kitchen. Do not add anything to it. It does not need your help.