Grilled Prawns with Seafood Dipping Sauce (Goong Pao)

River or sea prawns kissed over hot charcoal until the shells blister and the head butter inside turns rich and custard-like. The real game here is the naam jim seafood (seafood sauce) — a dipping sauce of lime, fish sauce, garlic and bird’s-eye chilli. Enjoy them at a beachfront restaurant, a refined dining setting or a cherished local favourite — preferably with your hands. Napkins may help, but some experiences are best enjoyed without too much ceremony.