Salt and Pepper Prawns
(Goong Kua Prik Glua)

Whole prawns — shell on — tossed in the wok with sea salt, cracked white pepper, garlic and a handful of chilli until the shells are dry and fragrant and the tails curl with heat. You eat them whole: the shell is the seasoning. It should arrive at the table immediately and be eaten in the same spirit. One of the simplest dishes on this list and one of the best. Do not sleep on it because it sounds unambitious.