Seafood Hor Mok in Young Coconut (Hor Mok Talay Maprao On)

A southern Thai steamed curry custard — fish, squid and prawns folded into a thick paste of coconut cream, kaffir lime and red curry — served inside a young coconut that lends a faint, grassy sweetness to every spoonful. The texture is somewhere between a soufflé and a flan. You will not regret ordering two. The version worth seeking out is custardy and quivering, not rubbery. If it bounces when you prod it, send it back.