Poh Taek — “Broken Pot” Seafood Soup

The name means “the pot explodes,” and the soup earns it. A thunderstorm of clams, mussels, prawns and fish in a clear broth rampant with galangal, lemongrass, chilli and holy basil. It is fiercer than tom yum and considerably less polite. A bowl of steamed rice on the side is not optional — it is a survival mechanism. Order it at lunch when you still have the afternoon to recover.