Guardians of Grace: Reviving Surat Thani’s Muay Chaiya

Centuries ago, Siamese warriors relied on skill, not swords, to survive. From this need for rapid, unarmed defense, Muay Chaiya was born — a graceful, agile branch of Muay Boran that prizes defense and precision, honed in Thailand’s southern heartland.

Words & Photography: Mimi Grachangnetara

When visitors think of Thailand’s national sport, they picture the heart-pounding spectacle of Muay Thai: rhythmic drums, the roar of the crowd, and fighters exchanging kicks and punches under bright lights. But there’s a lesser-known chapter of Thai martial heritage that predates the modern ring. To find it, you must look south, to Surat Thani province, where an ancient martial art called Muay Chaiya took root — a style that shaped Muay Thai itself, yet remains a hidden gem even among locals.

Centuries ago, Siamese warriors often faced enemies with nothing but their bodies as weapons. They needed an unarmed combat system that could fend off sword-wielding invaders in seconds. From this necessity arose Muay Boran, or “ancient boxing,” the root of all Thai martial arts. While records of Muay Boran’s early history were lost when Burmese forces sacked Ayutthaya in 1767, what survived were its branches — unique regional fighting styles developed across Siam.

In the northeast, Muay Korat became known for its thunderous punches; in the central plains, Muay Lopburi earned fame for its clever feints and agile footwork. And in the far south, nestled in the quiet district of Chaiya, a different style emerged — one that emphasised defense, agility, and grace: Muay Chaiya.

The Legend of Por Tan Ma

Muay Chaiya’s story is inseparable from its most legendary teacher. History and folklore tell us of a Siamese warrior who fought bravely for the royal army. Weary of war, he left the capital and journeyed to the southern province of Surat Thani, where he entered the monkhood. Known affectionately as Por Tan Ma, he passed his knowledge to locals in Chaiya. Among his students was Kade Sriyapai, who became the grandmaster most responsible for popularising Muay Chaiya during the reign of King Rama V in the late 19th century.

But Muay Chaiya was never just about fighting. If anything, it was more about survival, discipline, and self-mastery. These teachings became part of Surat Thani’s cultural DNA. While modern Muay Thai is a combat sport, Muay Chaiya is more of an art form. Both are called the “science of eight limbs” (using fists, elbows, knees, and shins), but Muay Chaiya is rooted in principles and patterns honed to perfection. Fighters train

until every stance becomes second nature. One of its most famous moves is called Sua Laak Haang — “the tiger dragging its tail.” The name alone evokes Muay Chaiya’s poetry: a fighting style inspired by nature, practised with precision and grace.

Did you Know?

• The word Muay comes from the Sanskrit “mavyā,” meaning “to bind together”. Boran means “ancient” in Thai. Together they describe an age-old combat art where body and mind are bound in harmony.
• The art is governed by four core concepts, taught to every practitioner in Thai: Pong (protect), Pud (deflect), Pid (guard), and Perd (open guard). They all embody the philosophy of Muay Chaiya—relying on strategy, control,
  and the art of using the entire body as a weapon, with both elegance
  and restraint.

Rituals of a Warrior

The drama of Muay Chaiya begins before the first strike. Each fighter performs a wai kru ceremony to honour teachers and ancestors. Tradition dictates that the boxer faces the sun so that it shines behind him — a gesture believed to bring luck and ensure victory. The ritual once included tracing the opponent’s name in the dirt and stomping on it, signaling that the time for talk was over. From then on, only movement spoke.
In its heyday, Muay Chaiya had one of the most dramatic initiation rites in martial history: the nang krok (sitting on a mortar) test. To join the ranks of true warriors, a student would sit on a stone mortar, his face powdered white. Three opponents attacked simultaneously. If even a smudge of powder appeared on their fists, the student failed and returned to train harder. To fend them all off without a mark was the ultimate badge of honour.

Did you Know?

• The saying “Mud Korat, Chalaad Lopburi, Tha Dee Chaiya” literally
  means: “Korat hits hard, Lopburi fights smart, Chaiya guards best.” It’s one of the oldest proverbs describing regional Muay Boran
• Despite its cultural significance, Muay Chaiya remains under the radar. Tourists flock to Bangkok or Phuket to watch Muay Thai bouts, but few know that a short ferry ride from Koh Samui takes you to the birthplace of one of Thailand’s oldest martial traditions. For practitioners, this obscurity is bittersweet. Their greatest fight is no longer on the battlefield or in the ring – it’s the struggle to preserve their heritage.
• Watching a Muay Chaiya demonstration is unlike any other martial arts performance. The movements are deliberate, almost dance-like, yet every motion hides a devastating application. To see it is to understand why Muay Chaiya is often described as “awayawut,” the art of using one’s body as a weapon. It’s an art, not a sport; a living connection to Siam’s warrior past.

Training in the Old Ways

Long before modern gyms with heavy bags and padded gloves, Muay Chaiya fighters trained with simple, ingenious tools. Stances were drilled until they became instinctive. Fighters practiced the yang saam koom, a method of walking with measured, aerodynamic steps, building strength in both legs and upper body. Protective gear reflected both necessity and tradition. Fighters wrapped themselves with cloth around the waist and groin for protection. Every detail of training was rooted in survival, since one wrong move could mean the difference between life and death.

For Surat Thani locals, Muay Chaiya is a source of pride and identity. The town of Chaiya itself is a place of quiet temples and history – once an important centre of the Srivijaya Empire. To see Muay Chaiya performed here is to witness living history: graceful yet deadly movements passed from monk to soldier, teacher to student, for centuries.

Experiencing Muay Chaiya Today

For travellers staying on Koh Samui, Surat Thani’s mainland is just across the water. Some cultural centres and dedicated schools in the province occasionally offer demonstrations or workshops for visitors. Even if you don’t step into the ring, witnessing a live Muay Chaiya performance offers a rare and authentic glimpse into Thailand’s martial and cultural soul.

Imagine sitting under a southern Thai sunset as the drums start and a fighter, clad in traditional cloth wraps, performs the wai kru. Every movement pays homage to centuries of teachers before him. It’s an unforgettable experience, and one that enriches any visit to southern Thailand.

Tip for Guests

Ask your hotel concierge about cultural excursions to Surat Thani. Many tours combine temple visits, historical sites, and a live Muay Chaiya demonstration — a perfect way to blend culture, history, and adventure.